Said from the man himself, Pete Wells, "Connoisseurs of ultratender burgers will go wild for Mr. Capon’s hefty but loosely packed version on an extremely yielding bun. I like a burger that puts up more of a fight, but I loved the flavors of the melted raclette and caramelized onions.
The most imposing of the meats is the veal chop, thick and quartz-pink. It’s rubbed with paprika, coriander and fennel seeds for a whiff of the souk, but what gives it energy is the juice of a grilled orange half. That citrus-spice alchemy is a terrific solution to the boredom sometimes caused by plain broiled lumps of animal muscle."
Read the full New York Times review here.